Wednesday, 21 February 2018

THE SEVEN-DAY SRILANKAN ADVENTURE - Part 2




THE TOUR - DATEWISE


FIRST DAY’S EXPERIENCE
17.1.2018

Chennai    Airpot    Departure:

Right at 5.00 AM on the first day of our journey, all three of us, my daughter Amirdha who had motivated me to take up this trip despite my poor health condition, who boldly took the responsibility of taking me along, her husband Sreeram’s darling sister, Geetha, and myself were ready with our bag and baggage. Seven sets of dress for the next 7 days, handbag containing Travel documents like Passport, Visa etc., were all ready and kept in the Puja Room the previous night itself. I was draped in a Sandal coloured Silk Saree, Amridha was in Red Churidar, and Geetha in a Blue Saree. My son-in-law Sreeram took our snap with all three holding the travel gear, with the puja as backdrop.



We left at 6.10, and reached Chennai Airport exactly at 6.25. carrying his travel gear, Manivannan was there to receive us with his sweet voice ‘welcome’, ‘welcome’. We collected our individual photocopy bunch containing our tickets, Passport copy, and Visa copy, all neatly stapled. Pushing our loaded trolley, we went inside. Some of the fellow passengers were already familiar through the whatsApp group. They were wishing each other and formally introducing themselves. After the formal check in, security norms, scans etc., we proceeded towards Gate No. 16. The organizer, Mr. Manivannan had earlier announced in his introductory talk that we will be served with 2 iddlies smeared with chilly powder, and another three coated with tomato - onion chutney on a paper plate.
Now, came the first bombshell.......

“Due to unavoidable circumstances, all will be served with Pooris (unlimited) and Potato, instead !” came the announcement(?) That was bit too much for most of the members (as admitted by them later), but many were cursing and trying to push inside whatever quantity they could, whereas I quietly kept the pooris aside since I knew this item will be rejected outright by the tender liver of any elderly person, especially on an early morning like this.
My daughter’s narration of excellent food arrangements made during the Cambodian trip was firmly registered inside me. Honestly, I was a little upset. However, I resolved not to bother too much about this initial shock, especially in order to forget my ‘not so good’ health condition. Instead, I decided to convert the following days of the Srilankan tour into a unique experience.
Then came the announcement that our flight was delayed by one hour, and it would take off at 10.30, instead of 9.30. However, the blessing in disguise was that during that one hour I got introduced to Hyderabad “Padma”, whom I found to be a store house of never ending energy. We talked about a lot of things – her talents, service mentality, social activities, in short, she really made a standing impression in our hearts. The impression became deeper and deeper, as the journey progressed. Thanks to the numbing pain, I went around and exchanged pleasantries with a few co-passengers seated nearby – just a smile, and just a few words. We three were allotted seats at different locations. However, the Sreeram couple ensured that Amridha and myself got nearby seats. And the ‘journey’ continued. We took ‘selfies’. Neither me, nor Amirdha could take the sandwich and cool drink offered by the airlines.

C O L O M B O  A I R P O R T

We arrived at the Colombo Bhandara Nayake airport by around 12.30. After the customary filling of forms, and experiencing the usual, unavoidable waiting in queue, the security and immigration checks, etc., we finally came out. Some were busy purchasing the Srilankan sim for their mobiles. Many collected the free brochures (briefs about places to visit, what to buy where etc) available at the airport. Many were oblivious about such info, anyway. There was some confusion at the security check earlier caused some delay. However, Manivannan, somehow ensured that the issue was not blown out of proportion.

TWO MINI BUSES AND TWO GROUPS

The 26 passengers were divided into two groups.

NILWALA I: Under the leadership of Mr. Raman, 4 couples – (Anuradha + Sreeram, Raman + Vedha, Thangavelu + Meenakshi, Vijayalakshmi + Nagarajan), inseparable friends, Vasantha + Manohari, Shantha + Yogalakshmi, and the organizer Manivannan – totalling 13. Driver was “Periz” (He also looked ‘Perisu’, meaning huge in Tamil)

NILWALA II: Under the leadership of Ms. Usha, 5 couples, (Padma + Kasi, Usha + Anand, Saraswati + Sivaraman, Soorya + Moorthy, Seetha + Mani) and of course, Radha, Geetha, and Amirdha – totaling 13. Drivers were Duvindhu and Reggie. Baggages were loaded on to respective vans and we continued our travel. The first seat (Single seat) in our van happened to be a little tall. I occupied the seat, and next to that the two seater was occupied by Padma, and Amirdha. Remaining twin seaters were judiciously occupied by some couples. Usha, Geetha, and Seetha, however preferred single seaters.
In the coming days, the seats should be exchange – that was the understanding! However, I was given exemption and ‘special’ status and nobody claimed my seat (not till our return to Chennai)

At 4.00 PM, ‘lunch’ was served at ‘Muruga Vilas’ – the items were Dosa, Vada, Idiappam, Black tea etc. All were too hungry and tired to bother about the menu, thanks to the long interval between meals, and the tiresome flight journey. Everyone relished whatever was given. Then, we embarked on the ‘real’ tour ..... the temple visits, that is.

SILLA – MATHAMBE TEMPLE

Our first visit – the Murugan Temple at Silla Mathambe – The idol is huge, very much identical to the Murugan idol at Pathamalai (Malaysia) – made of lime stone and with 12 heads and 18 hands in the company of Valli and Deivanai. We also prayed at the Vinayak sannidhi there. Just like the Kadirgamam Murugan, it was told that the ‘moolavar’ is in the shape of spear (Vel). The temple looked clean. Got vibhuti Prasad.

MUNNESWARAM TEMPLE

Next, we reached Munneswaram temple, one of the 5 reputed Siva temples ((Pancheswaram). This was the first of the 5 famous SDiva temples we visited. As per the available scriptures, the temple is more than 1000 years old. The age of the temple can also be ascertained from the coin released by the temple.

Main deity – Munnai Eswarar. Ambal – Vadivamba devi.  Refurbication works of temple were undertaken first by Parakrama Bahu VI in 1450, and later by his successor Parakrama bahu IX (1509). The Portuguese people banned animal slaughter (offerings) in temples in the year 1505. However, later they demolished the temple, and constructed a church at the site. Even they are not in existence today.

Despite witnessing numerous demolitions, the temple was re-constructed and silver domes erected, by Rajasinghe I and Keerthi Rajasinghe etc., wth the help of locals. Again in 1875, through Kumaraswamy Guruji, and then by the local devotees, the temple was renovated many times. The ancient linga is still available in the garbha griha. You can find the same state of affairs in the temples we will be visiting next.

MANAVARI SIVA TEMPLE


This temple is located in a place called Bangaduniya. Idol is – Rama Linga and Ambal – Raja Rajeswari. Originally called ‘Manal (sand) vaari temple, the place came to be known as ‘Manavari’ over the years. On the backside, you can find the ocean. Known as the first Rameswaram, it is claimed that this is the original location where Sri Rama created the ‘Rama Linga’ out of sand. This was in ‘Threta’ yuga. According to legends, returning after killing Ravana, a Brahmin, a highly repentant Rama was wondering how he could make amends for his sin. When he reached Munneswaram, the almighty, taking the form of ‘Jyoti’ advised him to go north of ‘Mayan’ river and construct a temple, as a remedy for his sin. Accordingly Rama constructed a temple and created a siva linga from sand. There is no abhisheka for the moorthy because it is created out of sand.

The second Rameswara is in India. Here also the main deity is Rama Linga, and Ambal – Parvatha Vardhini. The ocean I situated on the front side.    

NIGHT STAY – MERRIT HOTEL

After some more travel, finally we reached Anuradha Puram. Different rooms were allotted for the members. As a special consideration, we were given accommodation on the ground floor. (considering my age, and health condition). I must recall and mention with gratitude here that this arrangement continued wherever we had the night halt. The buffet here was sumptuous with rotis, semiya, wheat dosa, chola, dhal, fruits etc.
The journey on day 1 was very entertaining with Manivannan and all other members chatting and cracking jokes. We were given a three-bed room, which decent enough. We kept ready things and dress required for the next day. After the long journey, we were all so tired that we just strtched ourselves in the bed, and sleep embraced us. We fell into a deep slumber very soon and woke up only next morning….


18.1.2018

MUSINGS AT MERRIT HOTEL

As instructed by Manivannan, we had to be ready at 7.00 A.M. amirdha would set the alarm at 5.00, and wake us up. This was the routine throughout. We were ready by 6.30, after finishing our bath and getting dressed. (Amirdha in white churidar, Geetha in green silk saree, and myself in yellow saree) packing our things, and and dumping the wet linen in a plastic carry bag, we ent for a short stroll breakfast was just about getting ready. However, Vijayalakshmi Nagarajan
couple were already on a morning stroll. He was on a veshti, the attire continued right through the journey this prompted Amirdha to name him as Ramarajan Dhoti that his actual name was Nagarajan, we came to  know much later.
Greenish environment, full of natural resources, peaceful, chill and tranquil morning hour, cooling our minds as well. We saw a huge reservoir Kirushiruvela, which was constructed by one of the Singala kings. The long tar road looked spic and span. We came back to the hotel. Sivaram came to me and wished, and I blessed him Ayushman Bhava. This practice in fact continued every day, wishing along with his wife Saraswati on the last day. It might have been a formal respect and wish to an elderly person but this is something that I would remember and cherish for life.

Breakfast was ready at the first floor, and all had bread, fruits, idiappam, and cocunut chutney. Another dish that was served was some paste-like stuff resembling our mor kuzhambu. I would say that the breakfast was just about average, but no one were fussy first, all were in such an enthusiastic state of mind, secondly, and more important, we knew that we had to anyway, carry on with whatever was available for the next few days .... !
Manivannan took our group photo. I clicked Amirdha standing near the huge pot kept there reminding me about the proverbial thirsty crow.
Second days journey started with a dasavathara  prayer from Anand (one sloka describing all 10 avtars of Mahavishnu)

Link for the original song from the Malayalam movie Sopanam (Ladder)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YeLFuuHVWgk

All through the travel, the sculptures, lotus-filled reservoirs etc, formed real treat to the eyes, providing such a  picturesque view. Constructed through aid from UN, the recently laid roads looked neat and clean. At old Ketheeswaram temple we could see several marriages happening.

SIVA TEMPLE - THIRUKETHEESWARAM

Next was the Sive temple at Thiru Katheeswaram one of the temples finding special mention in the relics. Re-construction works were going on in full swing, taking special care to retain the sanctity and splendor of the existing structures, idols, paintings etc. Apparently, there seemed to be no attempt to exhibit any the details about the temple or who had sung the thevaram about the temple not even a make-shift plank / plate.  Nobody there could provide any details, either. 


Because of the Balalayam (temporary shiftingof all deities prior to the kimbhabhisheka, we could not see the moolavar the main deity, that is. May be those visiting the temples in the next one or two years would be fortunate enough to see the new look temple, since the refurbication works were being undertaken on a massive scale so we consoled ourselves...

Sitting at the nearby mango grove, all of us enjoyed the curd rice served along with the side dishes - pickles, and mixture... in paper plates. This, incidentally, was specially prepared by Manivannan. Most of us eagerly helped ourselves with second servings of the mouth-watering thayir sadhom. Amirdha got Srilankan currency of Rs. 5000/- (Indian value Rs. 2500/-) from Mani. She also got changes for 1000/- from nearby shop, buying biscuits .. !

Our journey continued towards Tirunageswaram. One side of the road was full of reservoirs, the other side, wearing the look of huge barren shiny salt fields, thanks to the exodus of sea water inside. The tanks were filled with shrubs, and trees. And my! So many birds in all colours and shapes mostly cranes with long necks and beak in black and white - standing on one leg like statues, as if doing penance, suddenly spreading their wings, flying for a while and landing at a nearbly place, suddenly taking off in a group, circling the area,  squeaking loudly, and then landing I was reminded of the military model discipline such pleasing video scenes....
The journey continued towards Jaffna

SANGU PIDI BRIDGE

On way to Jaffna, you could see ocean on both sides of the road, for kilometers. We had a stop ove at Sangupidi Bridge constructed by the President of Srilanka, Sri. Mahendra Rajapakse in 2002. Every one clicked photos at various points near the bridge in different poses... standing, sitting, waving, closer to the waves, etc., etc. Anand sir took a snap of three of us in the backdrop of the bridge, with his special touch. He kept on clicking snaps for whoever requested. Everybodys dresses were blowing like mad, thanks to the massive winds. Vehicles were flying at mind-blowing speed on the new bridge.

NALLUR KANDASWAMY TEMPLE


Next destination was Nallur Kandaswamy temple. There was plenty of time till the temple open at 4.00 PM. Till then, all of us took snaps of the tall golden structures of the temple. Anand sir explained 3 fundas on how to take good professional photographs. Checked in at Hotel Gnanam which was nearby and shifted our belongings to our rooms. Wwent back to the temple at 4.30. had good darshan of Lord Muruga. Ultimate darshan with karpoora harathi. Anand sang the Nithyasree song Kaana Aayiram Kan vendum creating total bhakthi ambience, elevating all to a great level of devotion. The view of Lord riding on the silver chariot along with Valli & Deivanai right inside temples inner ring was such a heart-filling experience. Moolavar is only a small spear (Vel). Idols of Valli & Deivanai on both sides, the Siva Linga behind.Being at a distance, the idols were not fully visible. One member of the Nagaswara team explained clearly about the idols. After spending some more time, we left before other members basically to ensure that we dont make others wait for us (because we walk at a slow pace) this practice we followed meticulously at all the temples/places without fail.


Next destination was Lingam Ice cream parlour all members enjoyed their choice ice cream  (at own cost) though I love ice cream, considering my present health condition I controlled my desire, and instead, sitting in the van, enjoyed the sight of every one, and in particular, my daughter, and geetha relishing their cuppa. Also, took snaps through the wind screen.

This short break in solitude, however, proved very useful because, I entered into a conversation with the driver, Reggie albeit through isolated English words and more in sign language his expressions truly reflected the feelings of the middle class masses of Srilanka and a visible sense of total peaceful ambience everywhere. He firmly believed India and Srilanka are brethren. And was full of praise for our Prime Minister Modi particularly about his promise of rehabilitating  Srilankans and providing them with new houses. He also spoke highly about his loving wife and two sons. While returning to our hotel, he took pains to enquire and locate Ambal bakery to sent the other driver along with Sivaraman to buy me some bread. Manivannan, however enquired about my dinner preferences, and promised to arrange for Idiappam.

NIGHT STAY AT GNANAM HOTEL

We reached Hotel Gnanam (where we were supposed to stay for the next two days), by around 8.00 P.M. We were served with chapattis, idiappam, variety of chutneys, plain tea and coffee. After dinner all of us settled down in our rooms. (here also we were given a convenient room at ground floor). There was TV, but none of the channels were available, except Sakthi which was telecasting some tamil programs. In fact, the newsreaders there were pronouncing Tamil much more legibly and with better accent than most of our news readers..... Geetha and Amirdha got the internet password, and were busy, happily sending the photographs of the day to friends and relatives, back home in India. Next day, I came to know that other members were  also engaged in the same exercise for a good part of the previous night .. !

Kept ready the set of dress to be worn next day and old, used ones wer packed separately. Weariness owing to the long travel, excitement of seeing new locales, so also fatigue on aacacount of talking to fellow-travellers, all of them forced us to drop down in our beds and sli into cool slimber.



THIRD DAY’S EXPERIENCE
19.1.2018

AT THE GNANAM HOTEL

As usual, got up up at 5.00 A.M and took bath in the hot water (trying convince ourselves that it was hot), Amirdha, Geetha and me in that order. We were ready at sharp 6.30 with Geetha in red saree, me in Black saree and Amirdha in Black churi: morning greetings from Sivaraman. Breakfast at 7.00 at the hotel you could have guessed the menu, yes! The usual idiappam, with vada and chutney. The fact was that the  thunderous sound of the word  idiappam initially   struck us with a loud thud. However, as the days passed, we just deleted the word from our dictionary.
All ladies in elegant silk saress or in chudidars with matching golden ware, as sprightaly as the blooming early morning lotus. We patted each other.

WEDDING ANNIVERSARY COUPLE


To the delightful surprise of all of us, Moorthy  was glittering in a silk dhoti and and shirt – and, Soorya was in Green silk saree and purple colored blouse. Both came gliding, smiling like newlyweds..... Just as we all guessed, they announced that it was their 45th Wedding anniversary. Both fell at my feet, and sought my blessings. I saw in them my son and daughter-in-law, and wished them from the bottom of my heart - “Ayushman Bhava” , & “Dheerga Sumangali Bhava”. Thunderous applause and handshakes from others followed and everybody unanimously announced that the day’s dinner would be on their account..!
Getting into the respective vehicles, and occupying usual seats, all proceeded towards ‘Nagabhushani Amman’ temple with profound enthusiasm. Amazing sight of the ocean on both sides of the road, and excellent and smooth road.

The day started with the prayer song from Anand, “Pettravalum nee, Perumai serthavalum nee ....... Karunai Deivame Karpagame” – (appropriate selection of song for the Friday). Geetha on her part, nicely rendered the song “Prabho Ganapathe”

What followed was an absorbing and mind boggling session of ‘Anthakshari’, dedicated to the ‘special couple’. Incessant flow of tamil, telugu, hindi and Malayalam songs shattered the atmosphere inside. Added attraction was the graceful dance steps from Padma. Splitting into two groups, all members rendered songs non-stop, drenching and wishing them with apt lyrics, and matching songs. At one stage, irrespective of the group, everyone started rendering the familiar songs in high pitch, the dance and music literally ‘shaking’ the speeding van. Two hours flew off just like that thanks to the continuous onslaught of songs by members. Soorya, Usha and Padma would take the lead and sing a song starting with the last letter, in whatever language, – before others could come out – The ‘Mouna ragam’ couple, Mani and Seetha, & Kasi were enjoying the entire proceedings with bright smiles, but flatly refusing to break their silence. Anand on his part, would release nice carnatic raga based film songs in between.

NAGA BHUSHANI DEVI TEMPLE



We got down on the banks of the island called Naga / Nayinar island. The boat station was about a kilometer from there. The approach road being very steep, Manivannan arranged an auto for the three of us. Others followed by walking. According to the auto driver, thousands of people took shelter in this temple when Tsunami hit the place. All the surrounding places were submerged in water, killing thousands, and only those who stayed inside the temple were spared.  Since then, people are worshipping the Devi as their family deity. He was choking when he said that I resemble his mother and he felt as if he has re-united with her. He wished many many Indians visit Srilanka and bring back the fraternal ambience that existed earlier. Those were indeed very touching moments to me. Gave him 100/- rupees as auto charges. Many shops selling white and blue colored lotus garlands. Bought  some and went to the boaat station. Getting in to the motor boat posed real challenge, but I somehow managed. All were provided with life jackets. The thirty minute ride was all excitement with the boat gliding over huge ocean waves. Some of the men folk got in to the upper deck, but ladies preferred to sit on the benches aat the lower deck. Such an exciting and entertaining experience, that was.
   

Several devotees visit this temple with all kinds of requests and prayers adi Sankara has sung about this temple and notified this as one of the ‘Sakthi Peedams’ because legend has it that the anklet of Sakthi had fallen at this place. It is said that there is mention about this temple even in the ‘Sanga’ period Tamil epics like ‘Mani Megalai’, ‘Silappadhikaram; etc. this temple was demolished several times, but refurbished every time. Indra seems to have worshipped this deity after he got relieved of the curse – reason why the deity is also known as “Indrakshi”.

They say, this Nayinar island is described as ‘Mani Pallava’ in the epic “Manimegalai”. There are several amll sannidhis in the inner ring. Huge beautiful paintings of mythological accounts, and idols. neat and clear inscriptions of  spiritual songs and poems like Thevaram, Thiruvasagam, thiruppugazh, Abhirami Andathi. Both the inner and outer areas of the temple were found to be maintained excellently.

Return ride on the boat, walk back to the van, the next lap of one-hour drive. The driver continuously kept us occupied by teaching new Sinhala words…
Had sumptuous lunch on plantain leaves with vada, appalam, pudding, subjis, sambar, curd, pickles etc.

SELVA GANAPATHY SHRINE, THODAI MANNAAR

Next stop over was at the Selva Ganapathy temple at Thondai Mannar. Huge structure remodelling works completed very recently. Here also only the worship is for the vel (spear) representing  Murugan   no idol. The temple is positioned on the banks of Thondai Mannar river. On both sides of the Vel one could see idols of Valli and Deivanai. The water spring inside is considered very auspicious. We all sprinkled the holy water on us. This temple was built by one Karuneeya Thondaiman, deputed by Kulothunga Chozha, to represent him in the negotiations for Salt Trade Agreement. The structure was later demolished several times, but now beautifully re-constructed and being maintained very well. Some of the offerings done here are the offerings at the  serpant sannidhi, cradle offering (for conceiving) etc. Legend has it that the main deity (spear) was brought from Kadir Kamam.

MAVITTA PURAM SHRINE

This temple situated aat the place called Velvetti Thurai is also known as pet Kadirkamam. Refurbication works wee in progress. According to legends, the princess by name Maduravalli had her face deformed like that of a horse because of some curse. She had a dip in the temple tank and lo! Her original face was restored. (Ma = horse; Vitta = got rid of; puram = place). There is another name for this place Gaangesa Puram. This was supposed to be one of the temples which was bombed and demolished by the liberation tigers. Archeology department has taken over the temple in the year 2011. The temple was re-opened in 2012. Main deity is the granite idol of Muruga. Being under Balalaya we could not see the idol. The poor state of the temple is in fact very heart-rendering.

NAGULESWARA SHRING KEERI MALAI

Next, we went to Naguleswarar sannidhi . a saint was narrating the origin and other details about the temple. The temple was reconstructed by a king called Visaya after it was destroyed in 534 BC. The Srilankan kings had very good relations with Chera Chozha and Pandya kings. One of the Tamil princess had married one Ugrasena. Remodelling works were in progress. The famous dasagara linga is here. Usha sang Lingashtakam here.

Inner ring has many sannidhis for other gods. We chanted the respective gayatri mantra at each sannidhi. This shrine has been described as Dakshina (Southern) Kailash. During his pilgrimage at Mahabharata period, arjuna had married a beautiful girl called Uloobi and got a son named Aravan, according to legends. It is also said that the temples name finds a place even in Arabian Nights. Coming out of the temple all had tea. We had the bread that we were carrying, and shared with the drivers. It was here that Yogalakshmi realized that she had left behind her chappals at ‘Mavitta nallur’. The van went back to fetch them……

PANCHA VANA PATHI KANDASWAMY TEMPLE

Manivannan had some undeerstanding with main priest and organised special puja, exchange of garlands etc, for the wedding day couple. Their joy knew no bounds, and emotionally expressed that this was the best wedding day they celebrated with dear and near ones, so far, and thanked everyone.

On our return to the van, I wrote a  congratulatory couplet then and there, and presented them.

Here is that couplet:

WEDDING ANNIVERSARY WISHES TO MOORTHY & SOORYA

The day when two hands united,
The occasion when two hearts coupled ..

Those countless days of fullest living
Blessed with darling siblings

The day when sugar cane merged with taste
 And love that blossomed through looks, so fast

His blessings be there for many more wonderful days
From my favorite deity Lord Ayyapaa, thats ……..

BEST WISHES


On behalf of Soorya Moorthy couple, ice cream of their choice  was served to everyone. Padma arranged cake-cutting and the anniversary couple cut the cake and fed all members to the back ground chorus of happy wedding day by all. Amirdha got me Pineapple juice. Vasantha too wanted Pineapple juice, and Mani arranged for the same. Sitting at the next table was a group of youngsters, celebrating the birth day of one of them. They were secretly making fun of us, the oldies and laughing and making fun. 


Anand went to them and wished Happy Birthday to the guy, singing happy bday, upon which they got so overwhelmed that all of them came to us and took our blessings on my part, I fed Amirdha with choice ice cream. Anand was recording the entire proceeding from beginning to end in his camera.



Some of the scenes at the "party"





Upon reaching our hotel, while getting down, I sang, “Nee Rama Nama mulagu nithya jaya mangalam” as the fitting finale for the day’s activities.
Soorya and Moorthy came to our room (102), and requeste me to sing the couplet once again and recorded it on their mobile phone.
Night food (Dosas served with chutney and sambar was indeed nice. I had a few pieces of bread, and a dosa.

Highlight of the day, however, was the revelation about Sivaraman and Anand being class mates during their PU days in the sixties at Thrissur …. ! Though bumped into each other many times in Chennai, this wasn’t confirmed. Thus, the Srilankan trip also turned out to be a nostalgic platform for the coming together of two old time buddies.


More will follow ……..

Enjoy......................
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a n a n d . . . . .
for ever..........

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2 comments:

  1. Fantastic sir. More photos too. Translation of the minute details like the stocks flights was very nice.

    ReplyDelete
  2. Waiting for the rest of the days translation.. What happened sir...

    ReplyDelete